Automotive tools are highly specialized in nature. Many a time a particular automotive tool serves only a single purpose. Therefore it is essential to have a set of automotive tools in order to avoid any interruptions in the business. However the automotive tool set is extremely expensive. At times, the cost of the tool is more than the cost of vehicle that needs repair. Sometimes the cost of tool set may be more than the vehicle needs to be repaired. Hence automotive tool financing is becoming essential nowadays.
There are some legitimate financing companies have an expertise in financing automotive tools. You can seek their help by submitting an online application provided by them. They ensure fast approval of the amount required to acquire automotive tool set.
Automotive tools financing is normally available under various options. Automotive Air compressor is one among them which helps in acquiring the equipment which costs thousands of dollars. There are various types of compressors like compact air compressor, piston compressor, single stage compressor, two stage compressor and so on. Due to automotive tool financing it is possible for almost all companies to acquire any of the aforementioned types of air compressors.
Automotive hand tool financing is required to keep ready a well-equipped set of hand tools like wrenches, screwdrivers, clamps, sockets, installer or remover equipments etc. These tools are indispensable for running an automotive repairing business. Acquiring any one of them is affordable to all. But keeping a set of such tools is really expensive and hence the need for automotive hand tool financing is essential.
Welder financing is yet another category of automotive tool financing. A high quality welder is important for the automotive business. There are some precise welders like arc welder, stick welder, TIG welder, and MIG welder and so on. They are essential to apply heat in a given area. The sophisticated nature of the welders raises their price tags and that's why automotive repair business people go for automotive tool financing to acquire them.
Automotive waste and recycling equipment are required by certain companies for disposing the hazardous wastes in a safer way. In fact many shops find it profitable to recycle the wastes. Therefore such equipments are becoming essential in an automotive repair shops. They are highly expensive and as a result of which automotive tool financing is required to acquire these equipments.
Brake lathe is yet important equipment in any automotive repair shops. They allow you to work on all types of brakes. You may need a combination of brake lathe, heavy duty brake lathe or car brake lathe depending upon the type of your business. However any type of brake lathe is expensive and not possible within the reach of all. Hence brake lathe financing is essential.
The automotive industry has undergone several changes in the past hundred years. Keeping yourself updated of the changes and using the latest equipment can help increase your revenues. Though essential, this equipment is very expensive and so seeking the help of a financing company is required. Some genuine financing companies offer assistance to acquire automotive tools without any frustrating procedures
A Brief History of Harley-Davidson
1903 in Milwaukee - Bill Harley and Arthur Walter Davidson designed and developed a one-cylinder motorcycle. Around the turn of the century the gasoline engine was developed and the one-cylinder motor was introduced. In 1901 the Indians were the first motorcycles and in 1903 Mitschell, Merkel and Yale.
This motorcycle was initially built for racing and was powered by a one-cylinder gasoline combustion engine.So their one-cylinder motorcycle was complete; it was reliable and beautiful in looks. In 1905, 11 cycles in total had been made. 154 by 1908.. by this time they had an official company, in a small wooden barn which was Davidson's father's. Although the company was small, it grew quickly, pulling in William; another member of the Davidson family to help. Pretty soon they had over 20 employees working for them. They even upgraded to a purpose-built stone factory.
In 1909, Bill Harley started on the first 1000cc V-Twin. Producing a modest 7 horsepower; the 45-degree V-Twin would become one of the most iconic symbols of Harley-Davidson motorcycles. The V-Twin stayed with Harley for a long time, and although its one of the most recognizable images of Harley-Davidson motorcycles; it wasn't actually invented by Bill Harley.. he was just following everyone else, at the time, V-Twin motors were the tendency.
In 1910, the legendary 'Bar & Shield' logo was placed on every motorcycle they made; to this day being the defining symbol of the company. Winning races, endurance contests and hill climbs also contributed to the validity of the growingly popular Harley-Davidson name. 1911, the 'F-Head' engine is introduced which will power the workhorse until 1929.
Construction began on a new six-story factory in 1912. This is also the year that Harley became an international dealer; selling motors in Japan in addition to the now 200 dealerships that it had in the states. 1914 gave birth to the side-car for Harley. The company also reinforced their stamp on the racing world, winning numerous races and becoming known as the "Wrecking Crew."
1915 witnessed the dawning of the three-speed sliding-gear transmission, a huge mechanical development for them. By 1917, one third of all motors were dispatched to the U.S military overseas to aid the war effort. Not long after; nearly half the motorcycles made by Harley-Davidson were being sold directly to the United States Military. Most of the motorcycles used in the war came from Harley's factories. Harley-Davidson had now grown to be the biggest producer of motorcycles in the world with around 2,000 dealerships worldwide. They survived the depression of 1918 and carried on strong. But tough days lay ahead. Indian was still in competition with their own V-Twin motors and the price of auto-mobiles dropped as T-Ford was born.
To combat these obstacles, Harley branched out into other areas of production: focusing more time on side-cars, manufacturing parts and even working on aeroplane engines, in addition to developing their motorcycles.
With the 1920's came changes. The appearance of the motors was altered, changes which made them more comparable to the designing of Harley's today. One change being the identifiable tear-drop shape of the fuel tank. Single-cylinder engines were once again available in 1926, having been scrapped in 1918. In 1928, the first twin-cam engine and front wheel brakes were available on Harley-Davidson's motors. This change brought about new heights in terms of speeds; reaching over 85mph.
The 1930's saw more progress as record breaking and award winning motorcycles were coming straight out of the factory doors. 1932, the 'Eagle' design was painted on all Harley-Davidson fuel tanks and modifications were also made to the engine. Not only that but the biggest Harley ever was created, the 1340cc. Which quickly became Harley-Davidson's trademark motor. But that's not all.. in 1936 the Knucklehead was launched, viewed by many as the final nail in the coffin of their competitor of the time, 'Indian.'
When war came around in the 1940's, once again, Harley-Davidson did it's bit. In 1941 they virtually stopped all production of civilian motorcycles, the company focused most of its efforts on the production of motors for the military. Harley-Davidson received the Army-Navy 'E' award for it's contribution. November 1945, with the war over civilian production started once more. Purchasing the old A.O Smith Propeller Plant to produce engines in 1947 increased Harley-Davidson productivity. The parts were then shipped back to Juneau Avenue for final assembly. 1949 saw the introduction to hydraulic front brakes on the Hydra-Glide models.
The 1950's brought more trouble for Harley-Davidson. This time from their friends across the Atlantic; the British owned 40% of the motorcycle industry with their Triumph. But in 1957, fortunately for Harley, they brought out the Sportster, which was the fastest Harley to date. This model was a big success, and, similarly to the British motorcycle industry of the time; Harley-Davidson stayed true to its technique, style and character. After-all it was those qualities that had made it the huge success it was.
It is now 1969.. time for change, big change. In the form of a merger with the American Machine and Foundry Company (AMF). This was extremely beneficial financially for Harley-Davidson, not only that but it also allowed them to produce on an enormous scale, a long way from the small barn from whence they came. However, with the new size and scale of production, quality suffered. The Super Glide and the SLCR Caferacer of 1970 developed a bad reputation. This poor name was unfortunately carried for a few years until Harley-Davidson brought out the new Evolution-motor in 1984; a modern motorcycle, yet still a true Harley.
The 70's were a very progressive and productive time for Harley-Davidson. 1971 saw the birth of the Cruiser. In 1973 a move of assembly to a larger 400,000 square ft plant in York, Pennsylvania. Through 1975-9 Harley-Davidson won the AMA Grand National Championships in dirt track racing consecutively. 1977 brought the FXS Low Rider and the FLHS Electra Glide Sport to the availability of the public. All of which continued to move the company and brand towards world-wide recognition and success. The continued progress through the 70's let to senior members of Harley-Davidson being able to buy back the company from AMF.
In 1987 Harley-Davidson introduced its 'Buy Back Program' which offered full trade in value on certain models within two years. In the same year the company also acquired a place on the New York Stock Exchange, allowing worldwide public trading of the companies shares and paving the way for significant financial growth. Finally on top of celebrations for its 85th anniversary, Harley-Davidson released the FXSTS Springer Softail. This was widely viewed as a modern day reincarnation of the 40's Harleys. With it the classic biker looks and the iconic 1340cc engine symbolizing a new era of Harley-Davidson.
The Fat Boy design was introduced in the early 90's and quickly became extremely popular. The name for which comes from the combination of the two atomic bombs dropped on Nagasaki and Hiroshima; "Fat Man" and "Little Boy." Destined from the start to become a collectors item among motorcycle enthusiasts, and few would disagree that it achieved just that. Also in the same year construction of a 31m dollar paint facility began, finishing the following year.
In 1991, the Dyna line of Harley-Davidson's was introduced to the market, starting with the FXDB Dyna Glide Sturgis. Now 1994 and Harley-Davidson are branching out into super-bike racing with the VR1000. Featuring an advanced duel overhead cam and liquid cooled engine, it showed that Harley wasn't completely averse to manufacturing a race inspired sport bike.
1996 through 98 saw progress in the form of plants opening in Franklin, product development centre opening in Milwaukee and assembly operation starting in Brazil.
Today in America, Harley-Davidson owns around 62% of the market of motorcycles with 850cc or more. Is a worldwide recognised and respected brand and considered a benchmark in motorcycle manufacture.
This motorcycle was initially built for racing and was powered by a one-cylinder gasoline combustion engine.So their one-cylinder motorcycle was complete; it was reliable and beautiful in looks. In 1905, 11 cycles in total had been made. 154 by 1908.. by this time they had an official company, in a small wooden barn which was Davidson's father's. Although the company was small, it grew quickly, pulling in William; another member of the Davidson family to help. Pretty soon they had over 20 employees working for them. They even upgraded to a purpose-built stone factory.
In 1909, Bill Harley started on the first 1000cc V-Twin. Producing a modest 7 horsepower; the 45-degree V-Twin would become one of the most iconic symbols of Harley-Davidson motorcycles. The V-Twin stayed with Harley for a long time, and although its one of the most recognizable images of Harley-Davidson motorcycles; it wasn't actually invented by Bill Harley.. he was just following everyone else, at the time, V-Twin motors were the tendency.
In 1910, the legendary 'Bar & Shield' logo was placed on every motorcycle they made; to this day being the defining symbol of the company. Winning races, endurance contests and hill climbs also contributed to the validity of the growingly popular Harley-Davidson name. 1911, the 'F-Head' engine is introduced which will power the workhorse until 1929.
Construction began on a new six-story factory in 1912. This is also the year that Harley became an international dealer; selling motors in Japan in addition to the now 200 dealerships that it had in the states. 1914 gave birth to the side-car for Harley. The company also reinforced their stamp on the racing world, winning numerous races and becoming known as the "Wrecking Crew."
1915 witnessed the dawning of the three-speed sliding-gear transmission, a huge mechanical development for them. By 1917, one third of all motors were dispatched to the U.S military overseas to aid the war effort. Not long after; nearly half the motorcycles made by Harley-Davidson were being sold directly to the United States Military. Most of the motorcycles used in the war came from Harley's factories. Harley-Davidson had now grown to be the biggest producer of motorcycles in the world with around 2,000 dealerships worldwide. They survived the depression of 1918 and carried on strong. But tough days lay ahead. Indian was still in competition with their own V-Twin motors and the price of auto-mobiles dropped as T-Ford was born.
To combat these obstacles, Harley branched out into other areas of production: focusing more time on side-cars, manufacturing parts and even working on aeroplane engines, in addition to developing their motorcycles.
With the 1920's came changes. The appearance of the motors was altered, changes which made them more comparable to the designing of Harley's today. One change being the identifiable tear-drop shape of the fuel tank. Single-cylinder engines were once again available in 1926, having been scrapped in 1918. In 1928, the first twin-cam engine and front wheel brakes were available on Harley-Davidson's motors. This change brought about new heights in terms of speeds; reaching over 85mph.
The 1930's saw more progress as record breaking and award winning motorcycles were coming straight out of the factory doors. 1932, the 'Eagle' design was painted on all Harley-Davidson fuel tanks and modifications were also made to the engine. Not only that but the biggest Harley ever was created, the 1340cc. Which quickly became Harley-Davidson's trademark motor. But that's not all.. in 1936 the Knucklehead was launched, viewed by many as the final nail in the coffin of their competitor of the time, 'Indian.'
When war came around in the 1940's, once again, Harley-Davidson did it's bit. In 1941 they virtually stopped all production of civilian motorcycles, the company focused most of its efforts on the production of motors for the military. Harley-Davidson received the Army-Navy 'E' award for it's contribution. November 1945, with the war over civilian production started once more. Purchasing the old A.O Smith Propeller Plant to produce engines in 1947 increased Harley-Davidson productivity. The parts were then shipped back to Juneau Avenue for final assembly. 1949 saw the introduction to hydraulic front brakes on the Hydra-Glide models.
The 1950's brought more trouble for Harley-Davidson. This time from their friends across the Atlantic; the British owned 40% of the motorcycle industry with their Triumph. But in 1957, fortunately for Harley, they brought out the Sportster, which was the fastest Harley to date. This model was a big success, and, similarly to the British motorcycle industry of the time; Harley-Davidson stayed true to its technique, style and character. After-all it was those qualities that had made it the huge success it was.
It is now 1969.. time for change, big change. In the form of a merger with the American Machine and Foundry Company (AMF). This was extremely beneficial financially for Harley-Davidson, not only that but it also allowed them to produce on an enormous scale, a long way from the small barn from whence they came. However, with the new size and scale of production, quality suffered. The Super Glide and the SLCR Caferacer of 1970 developed a bad reputation. This poor name was unfortunately carried for a few years until Harley-Davidson brought out the new Evolution-motor in 1984; a modern motorcycle, yet still a true Harley.
The 70's were a very progressive and productive time for Harley-Davidson. 1971 saw the birth of the Cruiser. In 1973 a move of assembly to a larger 400,000 square ft plant in York, Pennsylvania. Through 1975-9 Harley-Davidson won the AMA Grand National Championships in dirt track racing consecutively. 1977 brought the FXS Low Rider and the FLHS Electra Glide Sport to the availability of the public. All of which continued to move the company and brand towards world-wide recognition and success. The continued progress through the 70's let to senior members of Harley-Davidson being able to buy back the company from AMF.
In 1987 Harley-Davidson introduced its 'Buy Back Program' which offered full trade in value on certain models within two years. In the same year the company also acquired a place on the New York Stock Exchange, allowing worldwide public trading of the companies shares and paving the way for significant financial growth. Finally on top of celebrations for its 85th anniversary, Harley-Davidson released the FXSTS Springer Softail. This was widely viewed as a modern day reincarnation of the 40's Harleys. With it the classic biker looks and the iconic 1340cc engine symbolizing a new era of Harley-Davidson.
The Fat Boy design was introduced in the early 90's and quickly became extremely popular. The name for which comes from the combination of the two atomic bombs dropped on Nagasaki and Hiroshima; "Fat Man" and "Little Boy." Destined from the start to become a collectors item among motorcycle enthusiasts, and few would disagree that it achieved just that. Also in the same year construction of a 31m dollar paint facility began, finishing the following year.
In 1991, the Dyna line of Harley-Davidson's was introduced to the market, starting with the FXDB Dyna Glide Sturgis. Now 1994 and Harley-Davidson are branching out into super-bike racing with the VR1000. Featuring an advanced duel overhead cam and liquid cooled engine, it showed that Harley wasn't completely averse to manufacturing a race inspired sport bike.
1996 through 98 saw progress in the form of plants opening in Franklin, product development centre opening in Milwaukee and assembly operation starting in Brazil.
Today in America, Harley-Davidson owns around 62% of the market of motorcycles with 850cc or more. Is a worldwide recognised and respected brand and considered a benchmark in motorcycle manufacture.
Your First Car In USA
Your mobility depends too much on your possession of a private vehicle. You may go for a car, motorcycle or truck as your own vehicle. But due to severe weather conditions in many regions it is not a good idea to depend on motorcycles all the time. It is also not a good idea to have a truck or SUV as they drink lot of gas and the maintenance is high. Somewhere in the middle and perfectly positioned vehicle for Desi would be a car. There are various types of cars to suite your need.
What you should have
If you are a single man and do not depend primarily on your car for commuting to your work, then go for anything as you wish.
There are coupes which have capacity for 4 persons but only two big doors. Primarily these cars are designed keeping in view for two, driver and one passenger. The other model is the sedan which has capacity for 5 and has 4 doors. This can also be called a family car. Depending on the size of the car, they are categorized as Compact, Mid-sized and Full. Compact cars are very small in size and have a good mileage per gallon too. Some manufacturers even make two seated compact cars. The power of the compact car is also little less than the cars of other categories. There are other cars that have powerful engines and are rated as sports cars.
On the contrary, if you have a big family and need more space in your vehicle, then go for van/SUV. But I wont suggest this idea to people who have just come to US, before/after marriage and don't have any kids.
Besides, it is always your dream and desire that makes you to go for a particular type and model. But before deciding upon something, you must give a thought to the other factors like, the mileage, sitting capacity, transmission, trunk capacity, engine power, ease of driving/safety, interior, power doors and anti-theft devices. Also your affordability plays a major role in purchasing a vehicle.
Do you have a driver license yet? It is most important to have one before going for a vehicle. Various states have different rules for issuing drivers license. You can logon to Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV) sites to know about the pre-requisites and methods of getting one driver license for your state. Normally it involves a written examination, minor vision test and a road test.
The never-ending comparison
Now you have to decide whether to buy a new car or a used car. I wont suggest you any thing or force you to go for what I think is right, but you must know the good and bad things involved in each.
Used Cars
* They are cheaper.
* They may be old.
* They might have more than one owner.
* They could be purchased from private parties or authorized dealers.
* They might have gone through serious maintenance/repair in the past.
* They might have gone through an accident in the past.
* Some parts/components are just about to die.
* There may not be enough warranty/guaranty on some expensive parts.
* The mileage may not be good.
* They may need more maintenance.
* They may not be reliable for long drives.
* Resale may be a headache.
New Cars
* They are not cheap.
* They are covered under manufacturer/dealer warranty.
* Their fuel efficiency must meet the specification.
* There is the satisfaction of owning a new car.
* Easy to get a finance for new car than a used car.
* No need to worry about the engine, body, suspension, tyre, batteries and interior conditions.
* Insurance premium may be higher.
* Can only be bought from an authorized dealer.
There are many other things that can be discussed as advantages and disadvantages under both the headings. However, I don't want to focus on them right now. If you are convinced to buy a new car, then go for it.
Your target
Now it is the time for you to decide the Make, Model and Type of your car. In US you will find hundreds of Make and Models (no Hind Motors/Maruti cars of course). From a Desi prospect I would say it is better to start with Honda/Toyota/Nissan. These Japanese car manufacturers know our requirement and never ditch us on the highways. The engines are good and prices are low. They run long enough before giving up. The life of a Honda/Toyota is considered to be 300K miles. But the look and interior designs are not at par with the American/European cars.
Buying a New Car
Take a cup of coffee, chat with your friends and go through some reviews before you decide upon the make model and color of your first dream car in USA. Check for the existing/upcoming models of your car by logging onto the sites. Select the color and interior and look at the car through the simulator. The most important thing that you must consider here is that, when the next model is going to be released. If it is very soon, then don't go for it, because after you buy your car, you will see the newer model in the market and the resale value of your car will fall drastically.
Cars with automatic transmission and power window have good resale value. ABS and anti-theft devices are added advantages. Leather interior is as per your wish.
Now you have all the details in your mind and the budget is also finalized. Next step is to study the finance market and look for the bank/credit union who gives the best APR. Also don't forget to decide upon your auto insurance. Find out a good insurance company and try to get a quote from them. The premium varies from place to place. With all these things set up, go to the Auto-Mall of your city. Go for a test drive for the car you have already decided. Beware of the car sales representatives. They will always try to sale you the most expensive car they have. But you shouldn't deviate from your decision. Try to bargain with them for a possible reduction in their margin and ask for extra accessories.
What is the status of the loan? Have you arranged one or you want the dealer to make some arrangements for you? Always try to bring down the APR. If you are very new to US and don't have any credit score, you may not get a good APR. However, dont worry about the APR right now. You can always refinance the loan with a better APR after you buildup the credit history after few months of repayment of the loan.
Once the deal is final, you need to sign some papers and then provide the Insurance details if you have. Otherwise, you could also provide the insurance agents phone number and the sales representative will talk to the insurance agent to get the car insured before leaving their premises (dont worry too much for the insurance premiums now, it is important to get your car insured before you drive out of the dealers premises, however you can easily change your insurance later, if you find a better one). In case you didn't get any insurance, you can always go for binder insurance, but they are quite expensive, but you can always cancel them in the middle once you establish your insurance with somebody else and get the refund for the unused portion of your premium.
The next thing is to make the financial paper work. You will be guided to the dealers accounts department and one of the accountants will assist you in finalizing the loan and payment for the car. At that time they will try to sale an extended warranty for another 3 years after the manufacturers warranty. It is you who will decide for that. Don't listen to them, but evaluate it being unbiased. They will try to sale so many other things like paint guard, gap insurance etc. I would suggest not to go with all these things except paint-guard.
After everything is over, they will apply for the vehicle registration/license plate to DMV on your behalf and give you the temporary ownership license (stuck to the windshield of your car). As far as I know, they wash the car and give you a full tank as a compliment before you drive your car back home.
New cars don't give you much trouble as long as you do all the regular oil change and maintenance in time.
Buying a Used Car
Used cars are good but not as new cars. They are much cheaper than the new cars, but at the cost of your peace of mind. You can buy used cars from either a private party or from any dealer. Here also you have to decide your budget and the make, model and year of the car that you need. Also the other main factor is the odometer reading.
There are many sites that give you the links for used cars for sale. You can also refer to the local news papers for any such advertisement. There are places in some cities where people come with their cars for auction/sale. Since you are new, don't go to such places. Rather get contact information from news paper ads or internet. Get the details of the car like make, model and year of the car, miles it has run, condition of batteries, tires and engine condition etc.
Now go to Kelly Blue Book (www.kbb.com) or Edmund (www.edmund.com) and try to evaluate the car. KBB will ask you some question depending upon the private trading or buying from dealer. After you enter data about the private trading car, it will show you an approximate value of the car.
Private Party
If you are buying a used car from a private party, then you need to be more cautious about certain things like, the engine condition, the body condition, the interior and the accident/maintenance history of the car. Don't go for cars that have already run almost 300K miles (for Honda and Toyota). You can start locating for used cars for sale from various sources like, news papers, local ads and internet. After locating the availability near your place, prepare your matrix.
* Call each of them to fix an appointment for trial.
* Get the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) from the owner.
* Check for the approximate cost of the car using KBB or EDMUND sites.
* Compare the advertised price with the approximate cost that you arrived at.
* Use the VIN to find out accident/maintenance history from CarFax.com and check for any major incident. There will be a registration fee for CarFax.com, go for the one month pack.
* Talk to a mechanic for pre-purchase inspection of the vehicle. Mechanics charge around $50 per car. It is better to go to some brand names like Pep-Boys. They are good and reliable, but you may need to take an appointment beforehand.
* Go to the owner, see the car physically (for any visible dents, body color, torn airbag containers and interior) and then drive it with the owner.
* Take the car to the mechanic and have it inspected.
* (All the cars need a timing belt replacement after running for around 100K miles, so if the car is around or over 100K, then you need to figure out if the timing belt has been replaced, this information could be obtained from the CarFax report too. One thing you must remember that, in US, the auto spare parts are not that expensive, but the labor charge to install them is too high.)
* The mechanic will give you a report, in which it will indicate the current condition of the car and what needs to be fixed with a rough estimation.
* Check for the vehicle registration, is it current?
* Is the vehicle smog certified?
With the Kelly Blue Book report, CarFax report and the mechanics report, you can have a good bargain with the owner. If you really like the car and every thing looks OK to you, then start bargaining. Don't focus more on the tires/batteries, they are not that important as the engine.
NEVER BUY A CAR THAT HAS A SALVAGED TITLE.
Once you have decided to buy the car, talk to the owner about the payment and mode of payment (check or cash). The owner has to give you a pink slip indicating that you paid for the car and it is yours now. He cant simply lodge a complaint with the police saying you have stolen his car. It is his duty to inform the DMV office about the sale and transfer of title. You should also apply to DMV for transferring the title to your name. For registration, you will need the pink slip, the insurance (get one immediately) and smog certification. After you apply for the transfer of the vehicle registration into your name, you are the proud owner of the car.
It is too cumbersome to buy a used car from a private party, sometimes it is too risky and in all the cases it is damn cheaper. For some unlucky guys it might have resulted in spending huge money on maintenance the next day. But it is not always true. However, you are supposed to visit the mechanic frequently and spend lot of time there.
Buying from Dealer
The next best thing that you can do is to buy a used car from a dealer. It may not be as cheaper as buying from private party, but 100 times more reliable. Even some dealers give warranty on the used cars they sale. They buy the used cars, clean them up, do a thorough checking of the engine and repair any damages, dents etc before putting them on sale. You don't have to take the car to a mechanic for inspection, worry about the smog certification. But never forget to check the approximate price through KBB and have a CarFax report handy before making a deal with the dealer. Normally, good dealers don't keep cars for sale that have any major issues like bad accident history, salvaged title etc.
Go to the dealer, talk to the sales representative about your purpose. He/she will show you all the different used cars they have that fits your requirement as well as your budget. Once you have selected the model, make and color, go for a test drive (don't forget to check the odometer reading). If everything feels ok to you, then go to the dealers office and access their computer to logon to KBB for approximate pricing as well as to CarFax for accident/maintenance history for that car. Some dealers even do this for free. Now with all these things handy, start the bargain. You must always consider the worry free deal with the worth of the vehicle you are paying for. You may end up paying a little more than that of a private party deal, but there wont be any worries after you buy the car. If there will be any problem with the car (which is covered under warranty), you can always comeback to the dealer for having it fixed for free. The dealer may also arrange a loan for you and take care of the other formalities like title transfer etc. You will save a lot of time/worries in this. Time is important and costly in this country. So it is your call again.
After you finalize the deal, it follows the same process as a new car purchase. So finish all paper work and drive the car safely back home.
Tips
* If you own an old used car that needs maintenance and the mechanic gives you a list of jobs to be done, then do all of them once. That way you may save a lot of labor charge.
* As per my experience, buying a new car is always better than buying a used car from a dealer and buying a used car from a dealer is always safer than buying a used car from a third party.
* It seems to be a huge amount in the beginning to buy a new car. But if you compare the money spent for new (repay the loan) and used car (repair/maintenance), then over a period of 3 years they will almost equate with each other. So, why not to enjoy the ride of a new car
What you should have
If you are a single man and do not depend primarily on your car for commuting to your work, then go for anything as you wish.
There are coupes which have capacity for 4 persons but only two big doors. Primarily these cars are designed keeping in view for two, driver and one passenger. The other model is the sedan which has capacity for 5 and has 4 doors. This can also be called a family car. Depending on the size of the car, they are categorized as Compact, Mid-sized and Full. Compact cars are very small in size and have a good mileage per gallon too. Some manufacturers even make two seated compact cars. The power of the compact car is also little less than the cars of other categories. There are other cars that have powerful engines and are rated as sports cars.
On the contrary, if you have a big family and need more space in your vehicle, then go for van/SUV. But I wont suggest this idea to people who have just come to US, before/after marriage and don't have any kids.
Besides, it is always your dream and desire that makes you to go for a particular type and model. But before deciding upon something, you must give a thought to the other factors like, the mileage, sitting capacity, transmission, trunk capacity, engine power, ease of driving/safety, interior, power doors and anti-theft devices. Also your affordability plays a major role in purchasing a vehicle.
Do you have a driver license yet? It is most important to have one before going for a vehicle. Various states have different rules for issuing drivers license. You can logon to Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV) sites to know about the pre-requisites and methods of getting one driver license for your state. Normally it involves a written examination, minor vision test and a road test.
The never-ending comparison
Now you have to decide whether to buy a new car or a used car. I wont suggest you any thing or force you to go for what I think is right, but you must know the good and bad things involved in each.
Used Cars
* They are cheaper.
* They may be old.
* They might have more than one owner.
* They could be purchased from private parties or authorized dealers.
* They might have gone through serious maintenance/repair in the past.
* They might have gone through an accident in the past.
* Some parts/components are just about to die.
* There may not be enough warranty/guaranty on some expensive parts.
* The mileage may not be good.
* They may need more maintenance.
* They may not be reliable for long drives.
* Resale may be a headache.
New Cars
* They are not cheap.
* They are covered under manufacturer/dealer warranty.
* Their fuel efficiency must meet the specification.
* There is the satisfaction of owning a new car.
* Easy to get a finance for new car than a used car.
* No need to worry about the engine, body, suspension, tyre, batteries and interior conditions.
* Insurance premium may be higher.
* Can only be bought from an authorized dealer.
There are many other things that can be discussed as advantages and disadvantages under both the headings. However, I don't want to focus on them right now. If you are convinced to buy a new car, then go for it.
Your target
Now it is the time for you to decide the Make, Model and Type of your car. In US you will find hundreds of Make and Models (no Hind Motors/Maruti cars of course). From a Desi prospect I would say it is better to start with Honda/Toyota/Nissan. These Japanese car manufacturers know our requirement and never ditch us on the highways. The engines are good and prices are low. They run long enough before giving up. The life of a Honda/Toyota is considered to be 300K miles. But the look and interior designs are not at par with the American/European cars.
Buying a New Car
Take a cup of coffee, chat with your friends and go through some reviews before you decide upon the make model and color of your first dream car in USA. Check for the existing/upcoming models of your car by logging onto the sites. Select the color and interior and look at the car through the simulator. The most important thing that you must consider here is that, when the next model is going to be released. If it is very soon, then don't go for it, because after you buy your car, you will see the newer model in the market and the resale value of your car will fall drastically.
Cars with automatic transmission and power window have good resale value. ABS and anti-theft devices are added advantages. Leather interior is as per your wish.
Now you have all the details in your mind and the budget is also finalized. Next step is to study the finance market and look for the bank/credit union who gives the best APR. Also don't forget to decide upon your auto insurance. Find out a good insurance company and try to get a quote from them. The premium varies from place to place. With all these things set up, go to the Auto-Mall of your city. Go for a test drive for the car you have already decided. Beware of the car sales representatives. They will always try to sale you the most expensive car they have. But you shouldn't deviate from your decision. Try to bargain with them for a possible reduction in their margin and ask for extra accessories.
What is the status of the loan? Have you arranged one or you want the dealer to make some arrangements for you? Always try to bring down the APR. If you are very new to US and don't have any credit score, you may not get a good APR. However, dont worry about the APR right now. You can always refinance the loan with a better APR after you buildup the credit history after few months of repayment of the loan.
Once the deal is final, you need to sign some papers and then provide the Insurance details if you have. Otherwise, you could also provide the insurance agents phone number and the sales representative will talk to the insurance agent to get the car insured before leaving their premises (dont worry too much for the insurance premiums now, it is important to get your car insured before you drive out of the dealers premises, however you can easily change your insurance later, if you find a better one). In case you didn't get any insurance, you can always go for binder insurance, but they are quite expensive, but you can always cancel them in the middle once you establish your insurance with somebody else and get the refund for the unused portion of your premium.
The next thing is to make the financial paper work. You will be guided to the dealers accounts department and one of the accountants will assist you in finalizing the loan and payment for the car. At that time they will try to sale an extended warranty for another 3 years after the manufacturers warranty. It is you who will decide for that. Don't listen to them, but evaluate it being unbiased. They will try to sale so many other things like paint guard, gap insurance etc. I would suggest not to go with all these things except paint-guard.
After everything is over, they will apply for the vehicle registration/license plate to DMV on your behalf and give you the temporary ownership license (stuck to the windshield of your car). As far as I know, they wash the car and give you a full tank as a compliment before you drive your car back home.
New cars don't give you much trouble as long as you do all the regular oil change and maintenance in time.
Buying a Used Car
Used cars are good but not as new cars. They are much cheaper than the new cars, but at the cost of your peace of mind. You can buy used cars from either a private party or from any dealer. Here also you have to decide your budget and the make, model and year of the car that you need. Also the other main factor is the odometer reading.
There are many sites that give you the links for used cars for sale. You can also refer to the local news papers for any such advertisement. There are places in some cities where people come with their cars for auction/sale. Since you are new, don't go to such places. Rather get contact information from news paper ads or internet. Get the details of the car like make, model and year of the car, miles it has run, condition of batteries, tires and engine condition etc.
Now go to Kelly Blue Book (www.kbb.com) or Edmund (www.edmund.com) and try to evaluate the car. KBB will ask you some question depending upon the private trading or buying from dealer. After you enter data about the private trading car, it will show you an approximate value of the car.
Private Party
If you are buying a used car from a private party, then you need to be more cautious about certain things like, the engine condition, the body condition, the interior and the accident/maintenance history of the car. Don't go for cars that have already run almost 300K miles (for Honda and Toyota). You can start locating for used cars for sale from various sources like, news papers, local ads and internet. After locating the availability near your place, prepare your matrix.
* Call each of them to fix an appointment for trial.
* Get the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) from the owner.
* Check for the approximate cost of the car using KBB or EDMUND sites.
* Compare the advertised price with the approximate cost that you arrived at.
* Use the VIN to find out accident/maintenance history from CarFax.com and check for any major incident. There will be a registration fee for CarFax.com, go for the one month pack.
* Talk to a mechanic for pre-purchase inspection of the vehicle. Mechanics charge around $50 per car. It is better to go to some brand names like Pep-Boys. They are good and reliable, but you may need to take an appointment beforehand.
* Go to the owner, see the car physically (for any visible dents, body color, torn airbag containers and interior) and then drive it with the owner.
* Take the car to the mechanic and have it inspected.
* (All the cars need a timing belt replacement after running for around 100K miles, so if the car is around or over 100K, then you need to figure out if the timing belt has been replaced, this information could be obtained from the CarFax report too. One thing you must remember that, in US, the auto spare parts are not that expensive, but the labor charge to install them is too high.)
* The mechanic will give you a report, in which it will indicate the current condition of the car and what needs to be fixed with a rough estimation.
* Check for the vehicle registration, is it current?
* Is the vehicle smog certified?
With the Kelly Blue Book report, CarFax report and the mechanics report, you can have a good bargain with the owner. If you really like the car and every thing looks OK to you, then start bargaining. Don't focus more on the tires/batteries, they are not that important as the engine.
NEVER BUY A CAR THAT HAS A SALVAGED TITLE.
Once you have decided to buy the car, talk to the owner about the payment and mode of payment (check or cash). The owner has to give you a pink slip indicating that you paid for the car and it is yours now. He cant simply lodge a complaint with the police saying you have stolen his car. It is his duty to inform the DMV office about the sale and transfer of title. You should also apply to DMV for transferring the title to your name. For registration, you will need the pink slip, the insurance (get one immediately) and smog certification. After you apply for the transfer of the vehicle registration into your name, you are the proud owner of the car.
It is too cumbersome to buy a used car from a private party, sometimes it is too risky and in all the cases it is damn cheaper. For some unlucky guys it might have resulted in spending huge money on maintenance the next day. But it is not always true. However, you are supposed to visit the mechanic frequently and spend lot of time there.
Buying from Dealer
The next best thing that you can do is to buy a used car from a dealer. It may not be as cheaper as buying from private party, but 100 times more reliable. Even some dealers give warranty on the used cars they sale. They buy the used cars, clean them up, do a thorough checking of the engine and repair any damages, dents etc before putting them on sale. You don't have to take the car to a mechanic for inspection, worry about the smog certification. But never forget to check the approximate price through KBB and have a CarFax report handy before making a deal with the dealer. Normally, good dealers don't keep cars for sale that have any major issues like bad accident history, salvaged title etc.
Go to the dealer, talk to the sales representative about your purpose. He/she will show you all the different used cars they have that fits your requirement as well as your budget. Once you have selected the model, make and color, go for a test drive (don't forget to check the odometer reading). If everything feels ok to you, then go to the dealers office and access their computer to logon to KBB for approximate pricing as well as to CarFax for accident/maintenance history for that car. Some dealers even do this for free. Now with all these things handy, start the bargain. You must always consider the worry free deal with the worth of the vehicle you are paying for. You may end up paying a little more than that of a private party deal, but there wont be any worries after you buy the car. If there will be any problem with the car (which is covered under warranty), you can always comeback to the dealer for having it fixed for free. The dealer may also arrange a loan for you and take care of the other formalities like title transfer etc. You will save a lot of time/worries in this. Time is important and costly in this country. So it is your call again.
After you finalize the deal, it follows the same process as a new car purchase. So finish all paper work and drive the car safely back home.
Tips
* If you own an old used car that needs maintenance and the mechanic gives you a list of jobs to be done, then do all of them once. That way you may save a lot of labor charge.
* As per my experience, buying a new car is always better than buying a used car from a dealer and buying a used car from a dealer is always safer than buying a used car from a third party.
* It seems to be a huge amount in the beginning to buy a new car. But if you compare the money spent for new (repay the loan) and used car (repair/maintenance), then over a period of 3 years they will almost equate with each other. So, why not to enjoy the ride of a new car
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